Tuesday, May 16, 2006
Beijing, China, 16-19 February 2006: Da Zha Lan
Hutong Life And Scenes
 Shuan Yang Rou or Mongolian hotpot of thinly-sliced lamb, is a perennial Beijing favourite on cold winter nights. In this neighbourhood restaurant in Da Zha Lan, the proprietors' toddler son Xiaoxi ('little happiness') entertained dinner guests with his antics. While daddy busied in the kitchen and mummy waited, gregarious Xiaoxi cajoled for savoury lamb morsels from the patrons. Roundly chastised by a harried mummy and threatened with 'ma ma da pi gu' ('mummy's gonna smack your bottom'), he bawled hot tears. The sorrow was however short-lived. He soon burst into spontaneous laughter as mummy looked on approvingly with obvious joy and pride. |
 A little southwest of Tiananmen Square, Da Zha Lan is a labyrinth of streets lined with old-style Beijing hutong housing. Extant since the Ming dynasty, the hutong is fast disappearing as entire neighbourhoods are gouged out and functional edifices erected in place. Many residents depend on coal for heating and cooking, adding to the infamous city pollution. Coal fuel, often found stacked neatly outside doorways, are sold by itinerant peddlars who ferry their considerable loads somewhat precariously on bicycle trolleys. |
 This Moslem street chef hawked halal pancakes with chilli paste, freshly-cracked egg, spring onions, and crispy beancurd wafer filling. You would make an order and place your money on a tray near the gridle. The man then carefully handled the bills and change by means of a strategically-held tweezer, all the time scrupulously keeping his hands untainted. Costing 2 yuans each, these pancakes made for a scrumptious breakfast. |
Zhongsan Park, just west of the Imperial Palace, was an oasis of quiet from the madding tourist crowds. From here, the external walls of the Forbidden City glowed amber as the dying sunset rays slid across the glistening frozen moat.   |
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These are the 30 countries that I have ever set foot on. Airport stopovers don't count!
