Postcards From Abroad: Bali, Indonesia, 18-23 Apr 2007: People & Faces<br><i>South to North

Saturday, April 28, 2007

Bali, Indonesia, 18-23 Apr 2007: People & Faces
South to North - Nusa Dua, Kuta, Ubud & Beyond

Night, 18th. Arrived in Denpasar airport, Bali, around 7pm. Pitch dark already. Checked into Nusa Dua Beach Hotel (got an upgrade to the Palace Wing - which was nice). Recce'd shopping area just outside the Nusa Dua compound, found a reasonably-priced 'spa'. Decided to try it out with some friends the next day. Afternoon, 19th. Got a 3-hour session with body massage, hair treatment and foot reflexology (Rp 230K). No aircon, no frills, but still great!

Drum riff, Techno Gamelan Band, Dounty Disco, Kuta

Midnight pool session, tourists at Bounty Disco, Kuta

Evening, 19th. Dinner at Kuta. Great Balinese food at Warung Satria - spicy. Chilled out at Hard Rock Cafe with friends (the same spa gang), then the Bounty Disco. Watched while they played pool (I am hopeless with the cue). Near the entrance, there was some energetic hip-gyrating joget dancing set to pulsating Techno Gamelan.

Dancers to Techno Gamelan, Bounty Disco, Kuta

Dancers to Techno Gamelan, Bounty Disco, KutaDancers to Techno Gamelan, Bounty Disco, Kuta

Afternoon, 20th. Went on a tour. Visited the beautiful Pura Taman Ayun, Mengwi, which was set in a sprawling garden (rare for a Hindu temple), and surrounded by a moat. Ended the tour at Tanah Lot. Saw awe-inspiring sunset views of the Indian Ocean and temple complexes. Tourists were not allowed to enter the holy Pura Tanah Lot. Ritual Hindu blessings were dispensed at the base of the temple knoll. Had dinner at a restaurant on the edge of the cliff, with vantage view of the sunset. The grilled seafood was good.

Afternoon, 21st. Checked out of hotel and journeyed to Ubud. Visited a gold and silver workshop in Celuk village on the way (no purchase) as well as an Artists' Cooperative at Ubud. It was raining heavily when I was at the gallery. Hence I spent some time (and money) there. Bought 2 paintings in the Keliki style - detailed miniatures of traditional Balinese scenes. Took a photo of the artist, Sutiawan, aged 28 years, who had been drawing since ten.

Cooks serving Babi Guling, Ibu Oka, Ubud

Afternoon, 21st. Arrived in Ubud. Driver helped me to find a local homestay, losmen. There were several along Jalan Kajeng, at the centre of town. Decided on Rojas losmen on the second attempt, Rp 70K per day, with breakfast. After putting down my stuff, i had lunch at Ibu Oka 2 streets away (driver's recommendation), which specialized in roast suckling pig, Babi Guling. I had the special set (Rp 20K). Ubud is a quiet town. I rented a bike and cycled around a little, including the Campuhan area and Monkey Forest.

Sassy antics, hole-in-the-wall drink stall, Ubud

I stopped at a hole-in-the-wall stall along a small alley off Monkey Forest Road. Ordered iced avocado juice. Was entertained by the antics of my 'waitress' who brought me my drink in sassy style. She happened to be in the shop buying grilled fish for her family, and gamely helped out. Also took photos of the proprietress, her daughter (striking resemblance) and another family friend.

Proprietress' daughter and friend, drink stall

Losmen owner, packing offerings, Jalan Kajeng, Ubud

His daughter, a Legong dancer, preparing for a performance

Evening, 21st. Returned the bike. Walking along Jalan Kajeng. Saw a another homestay owner packing floral offerings unto his motorbike. Asked for permission to see his losmen, which he granted readily. Realized that his was a Legong (a traditional Balinese dance, danced by prepubescent girls in elaborate costumes) performing family. Saw his daughter doing her make-up. She was due to dance at a nearby temple in an hour.

Morning, 22nd. Woke up early. Walked to Ubud market at 7 am. Saw these mischievous boys as a got out of the losmen, along Jalan Kajeng. They playfully posed and strutted for me.

Ubud market was filled with people. Many women shoppers had already completed their shopping, and were heading home with their parcels balanced precariously on their heads.

Proprietress, vegetable and flower stall, Ubud market

Colourful stalls sold fruits, vegetables and flowers. Rose petals in all shades came in large baskets. This lady seller smiled coyly when she turned and saw me taking her photo.

For breakfast, I ate heavenly tuna sate (tuna meat was minced and flavoured with spices before being charcoal grilled, Rp 500/stick) and nasi campur of rice porridge mixed with vegetable-coconut salad and minced fish grilled in banana leaf (Rp 2K). Used my hand to eat it. Messy but good. Also slurped sweet black rice porridge (bubur injin) from the plastic bag.

Rice porridge with coconut-vegetable salad and spicy fish paste grilled in banana leaf

The Balinese are big on ritual offerings. Canangs, small offerings of flowers and leaves piled onto tiny baskets woven from coconut leaves, are ubiquitous. They either make them themselves or purchase them from the market.

Canang sellers, offerings in tiny woven coconut leaf baskets

Morning, 22nd. Hired a driver for the day, and went on a tour of West and North Bali. On route to Gunung Batukau, saw a few cremation ceremonies. It happened to be an auspicious day for cremation. Cremation ceremonies often take place long after death, when sufficient money becomes available for the relatives to conduct the expensive ritual and when the date is deemed suitable. Effigies may be substituted for the actual corpse in the ceremony.

Halfway up Gunung Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau was a tranquil oasis. There was a cremation ceremony going on in the central temple complex (tourist access was expressedly forbidden). Worshippers carried offerrings into and out of the temples.

My driver for the day, lunch at Jatiluwih, view of rice terraces

My driver for the day, relaxing at Gitgit Waterfall

After Guunug Batukau, I visted the Yeh Panes (hot spring), Jatiluwih, Pacung, Bedugul and Gitgit Waterfall in the north. My driver, Mr Agung, is pictured here having lunch with me at Cafe Jatiluwih - with stupendous views of rice terraces - and at Gitgit Waterfall.

Matriarch of Rojas losmen, at family temple grounds, Jalan Kajeng, Ubud

Evening, 22nd. At the losmen Rojas, the family temple occupied a fairly large garden. The matriarch surveyed the grounds in preparation for a ceremony the next day. That night, before bed, the family was up busy preparing the offerings. They do this every 15 days. I did not get a chance to witness the ceremony. Morning, 23th. Flew home.