Postcards From Abroad: Eze, France, 29 May 2006: Eze-Village <br><i>Walled Mountain Fortress And Nietzsche's Path</i>

Saturday, July 29, 2006

Eze, France, 29 May 2006: Eze-Village
Walled Mountain Fortress And Nietzsche's Path

Eze, a fortified village built on the peak of a rocky hill (460m above sea level) overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is renowned for its expansive panorama. From Nice Gare Routiere, Bus 112 plies the Moyenne Corniche all the way up to Eze-Village, midway between Nice and Monaco: a 15-minute ride. From the bus-stop, climb a short way up an incline to the entrance of the famous Hotel Chevre d'Or. Bear right, and you'll suddenly find yourself transported back in time, immersed in the medieval surrounds of Eze-Village.

Spiralling cobbled passage ways going uphill and downhill, never flat, encircle Eze-Village. Houses with ancient stone masonry face one another across narrow streets, barely a few metres wide. The sky is glimpsed between overhanging rooftops. For more salutory vistas, dine at the verandah of the Chateau Eze, once owned by the Prince of Sweden, which reputedly gives the best views of the French Riviera. At a price.

To the right of the Hotel Chevre d'Or entrance, there is a little path, Nietzsche's Path, that goes round the hill face to reach Eze Bord-de-Mer, a seaside village at the base of the hill. A small clearing opens up a short distance down the path. From here, look right to see the exquisite terraced gardens that buttress Eze-Village.

Nietzsche, the writer-philosopher, used to climb up the path (a good one-and-a-half hour's brisk work; 45 minutes going down), and was especially inspired by the scenery. Here, he formulated major parts of his magnum opus Also sprach Zarathustra.

Eze Bord-de-Mer waits invitingly at the other end of the path. From here, take Bus 100 back to Nice. Alternatively, catch the train that runs along the Cote d'Azur.