Friday, June 23, 2006
Budapest, Hungary, 13-18 May 2004: Buda, Pest, Szentendre
A Perfect Day
 The Danube River bisects the city of Budapest into the hilly western Buda Hills and the eastern flat plains of Pest. Perched on the peak of Buda is the old-town Castle Hill district, with its many attractive conserved building and homes. The Royal Palace, which now houses an art museum, sits in quiet dignity, wielding magisterial sway over passing river traffic. Much of the Pest riverfront was ruined during WWII air bombardment. It has since been restored. From the Danube bank, broad boulevards, squares and parks extend hinterland. |
  Start the day very early. Stroll along the Pest bank of the Danube, and enjoy the wonderful views of the Buda Hills on the opposite bank. Cross the Liberty Bridge at the southern end of the city centre to reach the foot of the Gellert Hill. From here it is a 45 minute leisurely climb up a well-marked path to the Citadel at the top of the hill. The Citadel is virtually empty in the early morning. Enter freely. Stand on the fortress walls, and enjoy panoramic views of Pest. Study the Liberty Statue up close against the light of the rising sun. |
  Escape to Szentendre, 40 minutes by train, a picturesque lakeside town. Wander through the meandering alleys, and have lunch at one of the restaurants in the market square. Admire beautiful Hungarian lace sold at the many boutique shops. Cheaper alternatives are Romanian lace, arguably just as lovely, sold by gypsy women at the market stalls. Seek out the shop selling 'Kovacs' cloth and peasant-style clothes - white-on-indigo hand printed artisan items that are guaranteed not to fade. |
  Return to Budapest. Take the underground in Pest (the oldest in the world, and the most charming - with beautiful wall tiles and original wooden ticketing machines), get off at the last station, and head for the Szechenyi Thermal Baths. Spend the afternoon relaxing in the many pools, sauna, steam rooms. The mineral contents of the various waters are scrupulously detailed. The main outdoor bath has water at 38 degrees Celsius. Curl up fetus-like under the rhythmic patter of a spouting fountain and be transported back to mother's womb. |
  Ride the funicular up to Castle Hill district in Buda, and spend the evening there. Many of the famous sights are found near Matthias Church, which is beautifully illuminated at night |
  After dinner, descend from Castle Hill. Cross the elegant Chain Bridge to get back to Pest, from where the incandescent Royal Palace can be admired in her full glory. |
 Finish off the perfect day by having the best iced coffee at Gerbeaud, the oldest and best dessert shop in Budapest, on Vorosmarty Square. |
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These are the 30 countries that I have ever set foot on. Airport stopovers don't count!
