Sunday, October 28, 2007
Bali, Indonesia, 18-23 Apr 2007: Island Escape
South To North & Back Again
Had to give a lecture in Nusa Dua, a tourist development of 5-star hotels at the southern tip of Bali, about 20 minutes from Denpasar airport. Stayed at Nusa Dua Beach Hotel, which offered dual advantages of beautifully-decorated grounds and close proximity to the conference venue. Spent the first night finishing up the presentation. The talk went off reasonably well the next morning, no difficult questions (relief). Had dinner of traditional Balinese fare in Kuta. After that, it was to Hard Rock Cafe for drinks and then the Bounty disco. (Dinesh, Bali veteran, led the way.) Next afternoon, joined a tour to Pura Taman Ayun (a temple complex in Mengwi) and Tanah Lot. Memorable dinner in Tanah Lot, at a restaurant on the edge of a cliff overlooking the Indian Ocean. To Kuta again in the evening. Ubud beckoned. Checked out of hotel. Took a USD 30 1-hour plus cab ride there. Heavy rain in Ubud, cleared shortly after I arrived. Searched for losmen along Jalan Kajeng, where budget lodgings congregate. Found one with the help of driver, Rojas: USD 7 per night in a hut with fan and attached shower (no hot water) and toilet, including breakfast! Brief unpacking. Lunch of barbecued suckling pig in a roadside restaurant nearby. Rented a bicycle, and cycled around the town. Saw Ubud Market, the Art Zoo (on the road to Campuhan), Monkey Forest, etc. Hired a car and driver (USD 35) for the next day. First to Yeh Panas, a hot spring, along the way to Gunung Batukau. The latter is a sacred mountain whose domed top resembles an inverted coconut half from far. There were several worshippers performing cremation ceremony at Pura Luhur Batukau: it was a propitious day for cremation. After Gunung Batukau, it was a circuitous drive along small winding dirt roads to Jatiluwih. Had lunch at Cafe Jatiluwih, surrounded by incomparable views of rice terraces in subtly shifting shades of emerald. (The volcanic soil in Bali being so fertile, rice is harvested continually throughout the year.) After lunch, it was off to Pacung, then Bedugul. Bedugul is Muslim country in the north of predominantly Hindu Bali. Temperature dips a few degrees here. Serene Lake Bratan and Pura Ulun Danu Bratan offered a cool and refreshing respite. Before making way back south, stopped at Gitgit Multi-tier Waterfall. Swam. Stopped at Campuhan just before Ubud. Pura Gunung Lebah. Got back to Jalan Kajeng losmen around 5pm. Showered. Searched for restaurant. Got lucky: sublime dinner of nasi, fish pepes, Balinese salad and sauces (USD 3.50) at a restaurant along Monkey Forest Road. Back to the losmen, my last night in Bali. The owners were preparing offerings for the next morning. A reassuring permanence in a changing world. Gitgit Multi-tier Waterfall |
Labels: Bali, nature, waterfall
Saturday, October 20, 2007
Taipei, Taiwan, 10 -13 Oct 2007: Now & Then
Present & Past Perfect
Four Days In Taipei Touchdown, Taonan Airport, 10.30pm, 10th October. Took a 30-minute taxi ride to Grand Hyatt Hotel. Haunted, I heard one fellow traveler spook another at immigrations. The hotel is next to Taipei 101, which was brightly lit up for the Taiwanese Independence Day ("Shuang Shi ++" or "Double Ten"). My room was gloomy, the bed-lights did not work. (I was to find out: other people in my group also had lights that did not work. Strange. Very.)Changed quickly and walked to nearby Linjiang Night Market. Busy pedestrian street with many hawker fare. Ate, sated, strolled back. The next day's workshop was scheduled for the afternoon. Went with Wanshan to the National Palace Museum, or "Gu Gong". Train stopped at Shilin Station. Continued on a cab for NT100. Gu Gong has an awesome Chinese collection stretching back 8000 years: jades, bronzes, porcelain, court paintings. Favourites: animal-mask bronzes (4,000 to 1,000 BC), Sung porcelain, Ming bowls, Qing jades (treasures from individual rooms in the Forbidden City). The free guided tour was very informative. Pity, photography was not allowed. Attended meeting in the afternoon. After that, our group gathered at the hotel lobby. Siok Luan and Kiam Wee pointed out the talisman scrolls that were displayed on both sides of the service entrance to the lobby, as well as the heavy wind chimes at the main entrance. These were put up purportedly to ward off ghostly spirits. The hotel was built on burial/execution grounds. Somewhat shaken, we went out for dinner at Ximending, of mostly street fare. And returned with some trepidation to our rooms at the end of the long day. Whole-day meeting the next day. Evening programme: Lungshan Temple, Ximending again. Returned to hotel, then went for group dinner at Kiki Restaurant, Guangfu Road. Hearty Sichuan food. Strolled back to hotel in light drizzle. Another long day ended. Saturday 13th, flight was not until 6.25pm. After breakfast, took train to Beitou, a spa town during the Japanese Occupation. Small Hot Springs Museum (where you must remove shoes at the door and wear the slippers that were provided) was good for a 20-minute visit. There were a public bath and some hot spring inns, but I did not stay to try them out. Took a bus (230, one every 30 min) to Yang Ming Shan National Park. Met Vivian and husband on the bus. They were staying with a friend until Monday. Reached YMS bus terminus at noon. Vivian was going to visit a restaurant-bathhouse. I did not join her, but walked towards the park instead. Saw Datun (Ta Tuen) Falls, climbed a small hill in Datun Recreation Area, and Guan Jing Ting (Scenic View Pavilion). Stopped at Sun Yat Sen Memorial on the way back. Paid respects to the Man. Hurried back to hotel. To airport. Touchdown, Singapore, 11pm, 13th Oct. 23 Years Ago ... Lived for a few weeks with a host family in Kaohsiung as an exchange student. Our group of junior college students was brought on a whirwind tour of the island: Taipei, Hualien, Alishan, farm stay in Changhua. I now only have scattered memories of that long-ago visit: |
Labels: museum, nature, Taipei, Taiwan, waterfall
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Ontario, Canada, 2 Jun 2007: Niagara
America & Horseshoe Falls
It was a lazy Saturday after the conference in the lovely quiet town of Niagara-on-the-Lake, on the banks of Lake Ontario. As my flight would not leave until evening, I rented a bicycle to ride the 10 miles to Niagara Falls. After brief directions from the hotel staff and a map, I set off southwards from the genteel town and soon hit a long picturesque stretch of road, Niagara Parkway. Reached the Niagara Falls after about 90 minutes of leisurely riding. Along the way, I saw a hydroelectric plant, as well as the Whirlpool, a torrent created by the confluence of rivers downstream from the falls. A thundering roar and stray wet sprays of water announced the approach to the Niagara Falls. The America Falls, on the opposite U.S. bank, and the larger Horseshoe Falls is on the Canadian side, made up the Niagara Falls. In the latter, water tumbled majestically into a torrential whirlpool below, boiling up into a permanent mist that shrouded the Horseshoe Falls. The Maid-of-the-Mist ferried tourists on scheduled thrills rides that teetered on the edge of the maelstrom before beating a hasty retreat. |
Labels: Canada, nature, waterfall
Saturday, April 28, 2007
Bali, Indonesia, 18-23 Apr 2007: People & Faces
South to North - Nusa Dua, Kuta, Ubud & Beyond
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| Night, 18th. Arrived in Denpasar airport, Bali, around 7pm. Pitch dark already. Checked into Nusa Dua Beach Hotel (got an upgrade to the Palace Wing - which was nice). Recce'd shopping area just outside the Nusa Dua compound, found a reasonably-priced 'spa'. Decided to try it out with some friends the next day. Afternoon, 19th. Got a 3-hour session with body massage, hair treatment and foot reflexology (Rp 230K). No aircon, no frills, but still great! |
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| Evening, 19th. Dinner at Kuta. Great Balinese food at Warung Satria - spicy. Chilled out at Hard Rock Cafe with friends (the same spa gang), then the Bounty Disco. Watched while they played pool (I am hopeless with the cue). Near the entrance, there was some energetic hip-gyrating joget dancing set to pulsating Techno Gamelan. |
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| Afternoon, 20th. Went on a tour. Visited the beautiful Pura Taman Ayun, Mengwi, which was set in a sprawling garden (rare for a Hindu temple), and surrounded by a moat. Ended the tour at Tanah Lot. Saw awe-inspiring sunset views of the Indian Ocean and temple complexes. Tourists were not allowed to enter the holy Pura Tanah Lot. Ritual Hindu blessings were dispensed at the base of the temple knoll. Had dinner at a restaurant on the edge of the cliff, with vantage view of the sunset. The grilled seafood was good. |
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| Afternoon, 21st. Checked out of hotel and journeyed to Ubud. Visited a gold and silver workshop in Celuk village on the way (no purchase) as well as an Artists' Cooperative at Ubud. It was raining heavily when I was at the gallery. Hence I spent some time (and money) there. Bought 2 paintings in the Keliki style - detailed miniatures of traditional Balinese scenes. Took a photo of the artist, Sutiawan, aged 28 years, who had been drawing since ten. |
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| Afternoon, 21st. Arrived in Ubud. Driver helped me to find a local homestay, losmen. There were several along Jalan Kajeng, at the centre of town. Decided on Rojas losmen on the second attempt, Rp 70K per day, with breakfast. After putting down my stuff, i had lunch at Ibu Oka 2 streets away (driver's recommendation), which specialized in roast suckling pig, Babi Guling. I had the special set (Rp 20K). Ubud is a quiet town. I rented a bike and cycled around a little, including the Campuhan area and Monkey Forest. |
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| I stopped at a hole-in-the-wall stall along a small alley off Monkey Forest Road. Ordered iced avocado juice. Was entertained by the antics of my 'waitress' who brought me my drink in sassy style. She happened to be in the shop buying grilled fish for her family, and gamely helped out. Also took photos of the proprietress, her daughter (striking resemblance) and another family friend. |
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| Evening, 21st. Returned the bike. Walking along Jalan Kajeng. Saw a another homestay owner packing floral offerings unto his motorbike. Asked for permission to see his losmen, which he granted readily. Realized that his was a Legong (a traditional Balinese dance, danced by prepubescent girls in elaborate costumes) performing family. Saw his daughter doing her make-up. She was due to dance at a nearby temple in an hour. |
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| Morning, 22nd. Woke up early. Walked to Ubud market at 7 am. Saw these mischievous boys as a got out of the losmen, along Jalan Kajeng. They playfully posed and strutted for me. |
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| Ubud market was filled with people. Many women shoppers had already completed their shopping, and were heading home with their parcels balanced precariously on their heads. |
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| Colourful stalls sold fruits, vegetables and flowers. Rose petals in all shades came in large baskets. This lady seller smiled coyly when she turned and saw me taking her photo. |
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| For breakfast, I ate heavenly tuna sate (tuna meat was minced and flavoured with spices before being charcoal grilled, Rp 500/stick) and nasi campur of rice porridge mixed with vegetable-coconut salad and minced fish grilled in banana leaf (Rp 2K). Used my hand to eat it. Messy but good. Also slurped sweet black rice porridge (bubur injin) from the plastic bag. |
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| The Balinese are big on ritual offerings. Canangs, small offerings of flowers and leaves piled onto tiny baskets woven from coconut leaves, are ubiquitous. They either make them themselves or purchase them from the market. |
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| Morning, 22nd. Hired a driver for the day, and went on a tour of West and North Bali. On route to Gunung Batukau, saw a few cremation ceremonies. It happened to be an auspicious day for cremation. Cremation ceremonies often take place long after death, when sufficient money becomes available for the relatives to conduct the expensive ritual and when the date is deemed suitable. Effigies may be substituted for the actual corpse in the ceremony. |
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| Halfway up Gunung Batukau, Pura Luhur Batukau was a tranquil oasis. There was a cremation ceremony going on in the central temple complex (tourist access was expressedly forbidden). Worshippers carried offerrings into and out of the temples. |
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| After Guunug Batukau, I visted the Yeh Panes (hot spring), Jatiluwih, Pacung, Bedugul and Gitgit Waterfall in the north. My driver, Mr Agung, is pictured here having lunch with me at Cafe Jatiluwih - with stupendous views of rice terraces - and at Gitgit Waterfall. |
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| Evening, 22nd. At the losmen Rojas, the family temple occupied a fairly large garden. The matriarch surveyed the grounds in preparation for a ceremony the next day. That night, before bed, the family was up busy preparing the offerings. They do this every 15 days. I did not get a chance to witness the ceremony. Morning, 23th. Flew home. |
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Labels: art, Bali, Indonesia, market, nature, painting, people, religious site, waterfall
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These are the 30 countries that I have ever set foot on. Airport stopovers don't count!
