Saturday, July 29, 2006
Eze, France, 29 May 2006: Eze-Village
Walled Mountain Fortress And Nietzsche's Path
 Eze, a fortified village built on the peak of a rocky hill (460m above sea level) overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, is renowned for its expansive panorama. From Nice Gare Routiere, Bus 112 plies the Moyenne Corniche all the way up to Eze-Village, midway between Nice and Monaco: a 15-minute ride. From the bus-stop, climb a short way up an incline to the entrance of the famous Hotel Chevre d'Or. Bear right, and you'll suddenly find yourself transported back in time, immersed in the medieval surrounds of Eze-Village.   Spiralling cobbled passage ways going uphill and downhill, never flat, encircle Eze-Village. Houses with ancient stone masonry face one another across narrow streets, barely a few metres wide. The sky is glimpsed between overhanging rooftops. For more salutory vistas, dine at the verandah of the Chateau Eze, once owned by the Prince of Sweden, which reputedly gives the best views of the French Riviera. At a price.   |
 To the right of the Hotel Chevre d'Or entrance, there is a little path, Nietzsche's Path, that goes round the hill face to reach Eze Bord-de-Mer, a seaside village at the base of the hill. A small clearing opens up a short distance down the path. From here, look right to see the exquisite terraced gardens that buttress Eze-Village.   Nietzsche, the writer-philosopher, used to climb up the path (a good one-and-a-half hour's brisk work; 45 minutes going down), and was especially inspired by the scenery. Here, he formulated major parts of his magnum opus Also sprach Zarathustra.     Eze Bord-de-Mer waits invitingly at the other end of the path. From here, take Bus 100 back to Nice. Alternatively, catch the train that runs along the Cote d'Azur.  |
Labels: Cote d'Azur, Eze, France, history, nature, sea
Sunday, July 16, 2006
Monte Carlo, Monaco, 28 May 2006: Formula 1
Grand Prix Rally
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 All over Monte Carlo, tall barricades block public view of the race track. Grandstand seats cost a few hundred Euros each. Other vantage points - bridges, terraces - are zealously guarded. No one gets past these keen-eyed officers without a valid ticket pass.   |
 For the determined, it is still possible to steal a peek of the racing action for free. Follow the crowd uphill to a knoll overlooking the port. The outdoor dining area of a cafeteria at the peak offers a panoramic view. The race begins. The air reverberates in a long guttural roar as cars thunder past. |
Labels: Cote d'Azur, event, Monaco, Monte Carlo
Monday, July 10, 2006
St Paul de Vence, France, 29 May 2006: Fondation Maeght
Modern Art In The Forest
 One kilometre, or a 15-minute hike, from the medieval walled city of St Paul de Vence, Fondation Maeght houses an important modern art collection. The museum's clean lines and distinctive parabolic roofs blend gracefully into the tranquil forest surroundings.   |
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The museum's garden is a treasure trove of sculpture. Animal-like totems stand solemnly in the shadows as soft sunlight filters through the dense foliage. A small chapel sits at the garden's end. Brague's stained glass window lets in coloured light. Trickling water bubbles through the innards of Bury's fountain, bringing the articulate steel limbs to animated life. |
Labels: architecture, art, Cote d'Azur, fountain, France, museum, sculpture
Saturday, July 08, 2006
Juan les Pins, France, 25 May - 2 June 2006: Beach Escape
Lazy Afternoon Swim And Stroll
 Juan les Pins, between Cannes and Antibes, has some of the finest sandy beaches in the Cote d'Azur. It is easily reached by train. From the station, all roads radiate, fan-like, to the sea. Plush Art Deco condominiums pave the sidewalks as well as the beachfront. |
  The beaches are my favourite. Soothing bluish-green water beckons. Covered with fine white sand, the beaches are devoid of dangerous rocks. Nearer the centre are many private beaches. Food is sold, and parasols, chairs, towels rented out, at exorbitant prices. Just as enjoyable are the public beaches at the periphery. Beach shorts, towel and mat are all you'll need for a great afternoon's sunbathing. Swimming is great too. Climb into the sea slowly though. For the water chills, belying the sunny skies.    |
  All too soon, it's time to get back. Fooling around at the Gare SNCF, Juan les Pins. Waiting for the next train ... here it comes.  |
Labels: Cote d'Azur, France, sea
Antibes, France, 25 May - 2 June 2006: Marina And Vieuxville
Pursuits, Gentle And Genteel
  Antibes is three train stops east of Cannes. From the train station, bear right and walk about 15 minutes through the city centre. Soon the boulevard opens to the Mediterranean Sea, where swaying palms and intense indigo waters warmly invite. Head to the water edge. On the left, spy a small public beach with sunbathers basking contentedly, and tall yacht-mansions berthed dowager-like in the marina beyond.  |
  Antibes boasts an exceptional deep sea harbour and several premier marina. Luxury crafts - small, large and gigantic - of the rich and famous find ersatz homes in the ports of Antibes. |
   The old town, Vieuxville, sits on a peninsula. A small winding road, edged by antediluvian stone ramparts that ward off the Mediterranean's rampaging waves, leads to it. |
 Solid old stone townhouses line the meandering cobbled streets of Vieuxville. Dense bright, almost palpable, sunlight casts sharp opaque shadows in the hidden recesses and corners of the buildings, throwing features and details into high relief.    |
 The townsquare of Antibes Vieuxville hosts a visiting German School Band. Shaded by an ancient tree, the band performs ABBA medleys and marching songs. The drummer is off-sync in 'Dancing Queen' but now redeems himself impressively with an explosive drum solo. |
  Retrace the way back to Antibes' modern city centre. In the square before the Grand Hotel, water fountains leap to life. Transfixed, sunbathers pay obeisance to the sun. |
 Back at Gare SNCF, Antibes. Rest and ruminate over the intricate patterns of train signal cables stretched taut. Others, more passionate, partake of delicious afternoon delights.  |
Labels: Cote d'Azur, fountain, France, history, music, sea, transport
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These are the 30 countries that I have ever set foot on. Airport stopovers don't count!
